Topsham river and canal walk

Today we thought we would make the most of the sunny weather, (seeing as this month has been a bit of a wash out weather wise!) and go for a long walk along the River Exe and Exeter Canal. We started our walk from Darts Farm car park (EX3 0QH), but for anyone who wants to do this walk a bit closer, there’s limited parking on Bowling Green Road or use the pay and display car park on Holman Way in Topsham (EX8 0EN). This walk ended up being just over 11 miles, but we did stop off at the pub on the way, and it wasn’t at all strenuous. It’s a popular walk with dogs, and the ferry we used was also dog friendly but there is a short walk along pavements by a busy main road. I wore walking boots for this walk but I can imagine some of the footpaths may get muddy after wet weather.

Views over the river from Topsham Lock Cottage

Views over the river from Topsham Lock Cottage

From Darts Farm we made our way to Topsham by walking along the pavement then the wooden footbridge opposite the Bridge Inn pub. We then followed the public footpaths which led us over a level crossing and soon onto the busy high street. For anyone who isn’t familiar with Topsham, its a beautiful little port town which has some lovely walks by the river, but also boasts some great independent shops and cafes. if you’re after a coffee or slice of cake, Sara’s Petitie Cuisine is my favourite place to go, not only are the cakes delicious but they’re so beautiful, just like the cafe itself! You’ll find most of the cafes and pubs are also dog friendly in Topsham. After a quick browse at the shops, we made our way down the steps by St Margaret’s Church and onto Ferry road, where we waited for the Topsham Ferry to take us across the river to Topsham Lock Cottage.

Beautiful views as we waited for the ferry

Beautiful views as we waited for the ferry

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Topsham Ferry is currently only operating at weekends, there’s signage by the waiting area on prices and times that they operate as well as online (click here) There’s also a small charge for dogs, bikes and pushchairs. We did have to wait a short while, as numbers being allowed on the ferry were reduced to 6 people due to the current coronavirus guidance, but once aboard, it just took us a couple of minutes to cross to the other side of the water.

Topsham Lock Cottage by the canal

Topsham Lock Cottage by the canal

After we got off the boat, we crossed the bridge and stopped briefly to look at Topsham Lock Cottage beside Exeter Canal, before turning left and walking the public footpath towards Turf Locks. This walk had the canal to our left, with plenty of swans swimming past us, as well as a Heron looking for fish and kayakers enjoying a day on the water. I also spotted Powderham Folley in the distance, which reminded us that we need to visit Powderham Castle at some point in the near future. It wasn’t long before we arrived at our destination….Turf Locks, the pub you can arrive at by foot, boat or bike!

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You’ll be treated to beautiful views of the estuary or canal at Turf Locks

You’ll be treated to beautiful views of the estuary or canal at Turf Locks

Although the pub garden was (as always!) very busy, we were lucky to get a table to stop and have a bite to eat and a couple of drinks. We sat looking out towards the estuary, spotting Exmouth in the distance as we watched the boats sailing by. Just as we left we watched some paddle boarders arriving via the canal, and some people leaving on their boat which was moored opposite the pub, we then walked back the way we came until we reached the bridge where we arrived by boat.

Watching the boats sail by as we had our lunch

Watching the boats sail by as we had our lunch

Instead of continuing on the footpath ahead, we crossed over the bridge and walked pass Topsham Lock Cottage, but first we admired the large wooden lock gates that the cottage sits beside and the views of Topsham across the water from the cottage garden. We then followed the path which had the river and Topsham on our right, and the canal on our left. There were plenty of kayakers and paddle boarders who passed us on the canal as we enjoyed the views of the water sparkling from the sun overhead. Once we passed under the M5 bridge, the path soon opened up and gave us an option to take a detour through the Wildlife Trust ‘Old Sludgebed’ Nature Reserve. We decided to take this path which took us along little bridges between reed beds until it soon brought as back out onto the footpath by the canal again.

Views from Topsham Lock Cottage garden

Views from Topsham Lock Cottage garden

The large wooden lock gates next to the cottage

The large wooden lock gates next to the cottage

Watching some swans as we walked along the canal path

Watching some swans as we walked along the canal path

The footpath soon became sheltered for a short while, then opened out again as we walked past the South West Water site on our right. After a short walk, the footpath then becomes a road which leads us onto Bridge road, the main road coming off of Countess Weir. Here we crossed the road at the swing bridge and walked up towards Countess Weir, crossing at the next pedestrian crossing we came to. We then followed the blue National Cycle Network signs which took us through a housing estate then out along Topsham Road. As we were walking through the housing estate we did see a lovely little homemade book library in someones front garden, for people to borrow and swap books, we had a quick look, most of them were children’s books and in good condition, great for any children who may do this walk.

Views of Exeter Canal

Views of Exeter Canal

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We soon arrived at the garden centre along Topsham Road, here we took the public footpath to our right (just before the garden centre) which lead us through a small wooded trail where we followed the path straight ahead until we arrived at a large tree which interestingly had bricks cemented into it! From here we turned left though a gate and followed the clear path ahead which took us through reed beds then along the footpath beside the river. Now we were on Topsham side of the river again, looking over at the canal path we had just walked.

A rather interesting tree!

A rather interesting tree!

Views from the river footpath, Topsham side.

Views from the river footpath, Topsham side.

Unfortunately it was at this point that we had to turn back on ourselves, back onto Topsham road as we had arrived just a little too late to walk this path as the tide was coming in and beginning to cut off the footpath. It was just a little bit too deep for us to cross. This is one thing to note about this walk, there are plenty of signs at certain points along this stretch of the footpath which warn you that the incoming tide can cut the path off, so be warned if you are walking along here during high tide. We had no choice but to retrace our steps then walk pass the garden centre and back into Topsham high street that way. From here it was just a short walk back to the car at Dart’s Farm.

We had to turn back due to the incoming tide cutting off some of the footpath

We had to turn back due to the incoming tide cutting off some of the footpath

Due to us having to retrace our steps, this walk was just over 11 miles. On a sunny day like today its an enjoyable walk, and there’s plenty of cafes and pubs to stop off at in Topsham itself, as well as the Turf Hotel by the canal. It’s useful to add that you can cycle this route, but the cycle path is on the other side of the canal (not beside the lock cottage) and you would need to use the cycle path along Topsham road instead of the river path on your way back to Topsham. Dogs and children would both enjoy this walk, as long as they are supervised close to the water. For anyone who didn’t want to get the ferry from Topsham to do the canal walk, there’s free parking beside the swing bridge along bridge road, as well as close to Turf locks. We hope to revisit this walk again soon, but do a round robin involving the train to Topsham from Exmouth, then the ferry to Turf Locks, and then the boat back to Exmouth again!